Most hoses only have a reach of a few inches; you may need to leave yourself room on the side to hook it up.
Attach each of the water supply hoses to the faucets. Make sure the hot water hose is connected to the hot water faucet and the cold water hose is connected to the cold. Many hoses are color coded, with red for hot and blue for cold. Others are not marked, so it will be up to you to remember which is which when it comes time to connect to the washer. The end of the hose that has a filter screen in the coupling attaches to your faucet. If the filter screen is not yet in the hose, insert one into the coupling before attaching the hose to the wall.
The screens should be included with your hoses. Then, with a pair of pliers, tighten the coupling by rotating it another quarter to half a turn.
Do not over-tighten, as this may cause leaks. Attach the water hoses to the hot and cold water inlets on the back of the washing machine. Make certain the correct hose is attached to the correct inlet. The ends of the hoses with plain rubber washers attach to the washing machine. If the couplings do not have washers in them, insert the washers first, otherwise your hose will leak.
As with the screens,washers should be included with the hoses if not already inserted. Tighten the couplings as in step 3. Turn on the water and check for leaks. If hoses are leaking, turn off the water and double check that your couplings are tight and correctly threaded. Connect the drain hose to the washing machine.
The drain hose should screw onto the water outlet similarly to the water hoses. With some washing machine models, you may find it is already connected, so you can skip this step. Run the drain hose to the drain receptacle. Depending on your plumbing, you'll need to feed the hose into a drain on the floor, the wall, or into a laundry sink, or there may be a rigid pipe that extends down to a floor drain. Consult the manual for your machine to learn how to use these parts correctly in conjunction with your plumbing.
Make sure to leave a space of several inches between the end of the hose and the bottom of the drain or sink, otherwise your machine may siphon drained water back up the drain pipe. Plug in the washing machine and push it into place against the wall. Check to make sure both machines are level.
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Uneven floor or incorrectly adjusted legs may prevent the machines from sitting flat. A level, available at any hardware store, will make it easy to tell if this is the case. Failure to level your machines may result in damage to your machines or floor. Adjust the feet at the bottom of each machine as needed. Lift or tip the machines slightly off the ground to adjust the feet. Some feet will self-level and will fall down to the floor as you lift. Others will need to be twisted counterclockwise to loosen and level the machines' feet. Some machines require you to install feet or pads before you begin installing the machine.
Run both machines to ensure that they are working. The washing machine should fill and drain completely, while the dryer should heat up quickly. If only three feet are firmly on the floor with the fourth nearly down but not bearing weight it can wobble and walk.
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Also verify the machine is level using a bubble level, any imbalance can cause strong forces during spinning. These are shown in steps and above. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 3. Why are the new connecting hoses to the water taps each over four feet long even though the washer is one foot from the taps? Also, why wouldn't I get warm water unless I cut back on the cold water hose? Lovely and very helpful tid bit! I love the idea of hiding the hook ups with something simple, yet practical. Thank you for sharing this, Suzy! I like the idea of covering the faucet hole in the wall.
Do you hook the box over the L hooks and let it hang there or did it have to be screwed on to the L hooks? Also, when you need to access the faucets, how does it open?
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Are the hinges on top or on the side? To access the faucets, you open the box from the front. The hinges are on top of the box. Love the new laundry room. And love that metal box on the shelf above the washer. The white one with the laundry symbols, may I ask were you got it from?? Your email address will not be published. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam.
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Learn how your comment data is processed. Do you struggle to decorate? Sign up to get my free e-book, "how to decorate like a designer", plus, You'll get all the latest from Worthing Court, Where I'll brighten your inbox with affordable decorating ideas and DIY projects that are actually doable! You Might Also Like Comments Great idea — my stupid cat is forever chewing on pipes and anything plastic. What a good idea.
The washer and dryer and water heater will remain as in the photos. Mike Mike 6 5. Where is your breaker panel is it to the left or right, moving the outlet closer to the panel is usually much easier. It would be a lot of trouble to move the water supply and electrics.
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I think you should figure out how to live with it. Can you push the washer back or would the top door hit the wall above when you open it? I guess the main problem is that it is a trial when you have to pull the washer out, but how often do you have to do that? Also is it trouble to reach the water cut-off valves if you want to shut them off while being out of town to prevent a flood from a rupture. The new type of hoses last a lot longer, I think. I'd agree with Jim; perhaps just replacing the supply lines and drain hose with longer lines would make it easier to pull the machines out when you need access.
EdBeal - breakerpanel is 18 feet away to the left, in the adjoining den.
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I was planning on leaving the outlets where they are, and run new wire to new outlets. JimStewart - I don't consider it to be a lot of trouble. Have the water pipe, drain pipe and fittings, electrical wire and boxes. Will be replacing the hoses regardless. Jim Stewart Jim Stewart The measurement from the top of the washer control panel to the ceiling in the cubby is 6.
The picture shows that you have shifted the dryer and the washer far to the right to get the maximum room on the left, but there is still not really enough room on the left to accommodate a drain with enough room to allow manipulation of the washer. Having a small gap between washer and dryer will make it hard to clean the floor there.
You apparently have to remove the dryer to service the hot water heater. You want to have plenty of clearance to do this conveniently. The plumbing would be in the wall.
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